2020 Desvignes Morgon Chateau Gaillard

91 Points Gilman: "The 2020 vintage is the debut for the Château Gaillard bottling of Morgon from the Desvignes family, as this is a climat located within the vineyard of Douby and used to be blended into the la Voûte Saint-Vincent bottling. But, these are eighty year-old vines in this one hectare, south-facing parcel and they have earned a single vineyard bottling in 2020. This is as ripe as the Côte du Py this year, offering up a deep and sappy bouquet of sweet dark berries, black cherries, dark chocolate, bonfire, a good base of dark soil tones and a touch of fresh thyme in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and plush on the attack, with great depth of fruit, very good soil signature, firm, chewy tannins and just a touch of backend heat on the long, youthfully complex and powerful finish. This is going to be a real long-distance runner, but there is a wisp of sur maturité that shows on the backend as this wine has a chance to blossom with aeration, and I wonder if this characteristic will become more pronounced as the wine ages? I really like the depth and stuffing here, but would have loved to have seen it come in just a touch less ripe, as it seems to me to be right on the edge stylistically. Others may like this deep, sappy and powerful Morgon even more than I do, but for my palate, I will look forward to drinking this bottling in a less powerfully ripe year. It is a very good wine, but I like the more svelte personality of the la Voûte Saint-Vincent every bit as much as this wine, though it does not possess anywhere near the same old vine depth. 2028-2055?"