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2017 Jean Philippe Fichet

White Burgundy and Meursault are better than ever with a new generation of winemakers capitalizing on soil diversity to make some of Burgundy’s most exciting white wines.  But there is one other important winemaker pointing the way to the future: Jean-Philippe Fichet. Perhaps this is controversial, but Fichet is perhaps more interested in Meursault than others. 
 
In short: Fichet’s work is a direct outgrowth of a breakthrough that happened three decades ago: René Lafon’s decision to bottle his Meursault “Clos de la Barre” on its own. For a century before, such a thing had been unheard of, as only the most famous vineyards—the premier crus—were ever bottled individually; everything else was blended into Meursault villages.

Lafon’s innovation not only proved that a lieu-dit (a non-classified vineyard) could say something profound, it drew attention to Meursault’s incredible soils—paving the way for the later accomplishments of Jean-Françoise Coche, Jean-Marc Roulot and, of course, René Lafon’s son Dominique. But Fichet has carried Lafon’s revolution to another level—studying every square inch of earth and stone in his domaine, to make Meursault’s purest set of single-climat wines.  

Fichet’s methods reflect his philosophy: he is famously meticulous and abhors taking short cuts. His low yields, the foremost key to quality, are achieved through severe winter pruning rather than by green harvesting. And he believes his wines’ expressiveness is enhanced through a patient 18-month élevage, with little new oak and by avoiding aggressive lees stirring.  The wines that Jean-Philippe Fichet is making today have few rivals for their class in Burgundy, and they could be unmatched in their transparency and expressiveness.  

I was fortunate to try some barrel samples of the 2017s and extracted whatever notes I could on these tightly knit wonders that have more energy and life without a breath than most others a few years old.  Try for yourself....if you haven't already. 
 
  • Wines arrive in 4 weeks
  • Meursault lieut-dits and premier crus will arrive in the summer
  • 10% off on 6, 15% off 12


2017 Fichet Bourgogne Blanc
Newsletter Price: $33.99

One of the best bourgogne blancs out there. Bright and wide nose filled with various apples, lime, a touch of salinity. Full-bodied, crisp and quite long, with good focus and grip. These are all from fairly deep, clay soils, so this is a bit more fruit-driven in personality than the Vieilles Vignes version.

2017 Fichet Bourgogne Blanc VV
Newsletter Price: $41.99
From several old parcels primarily in Meursault, including one that abuts Charmes.
 More high-toned and perfumed than the regular oodles of white flowers, lemon oils, citrus and hazelnuts.  Ripe and rich on the palate with lots of citrus, honey and stoney essence. Bedazzling finish that makes one hard pressed to not think of this as a village wine. 

2017 Fichet Hautes-Cotes de Beaune Blanc:
Newsletter Price: $36.99
First vintage of this wine to hit the NY market. Very closed and discreet like a French bull dog I saw in the farmers market this morning. Hints of white flower and citrus oils glide nicely underneath an underripe apple coating that is set to explode. 


2017 Fichet Auxey-Duresses Blanc
Newsletter Price: $49.99

From 2 parcels of old vines one NE, one SE facing.  Absolutely banging stuff and one of my favorite white Burgs for the price every year. Loads of exotic red apples, lemon curd, honey, white flowers, tangerines and stone. The palate is racy and filled with ripe citrus flavors, some intense minerality and a long finish. So good it huts, or hurts so good!

2017 Fichet Chassagne-Montrachet
Newsletter Price: $74.99
So closed down. #Sad #Do better.
This is normally an incredible manifestation of Chassagne with some grittines and fatness but overall filled with lots of energy. The palate is game with big sappy flavors and mouth coating aromas. Can't wait to try this in a few years. 
 
2017 Fichet Meursault 
Newsletter Price: $79.99
From 3 parcels in Meursault, including Les Clous et le Limousin The blended Meursault villages from Domaine Fichet hails from five different parcels scattered around the commune. Deep and pure with tons of vibrancy; blend of  apple, lime, almond, chalky minerality, acacia and citrus oils. Fullbodied, crisp, with fat core of fruit. Well balanced with deep finish.  Should age quite well! 

2017 Fichet Rully Blanc
Newsletter Price: $39.99
Only second vintage of this wine and first for the NY market,. Extreme freshness with vigor, zest and lots of energy, Exciting times!

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