2023 Hubert Lignier Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Chaffots

The Ligniers own just under half a hectare of 50-year-old vines in this great premier cru, which sits just above Clos-Saint-Denis on the slope. In striking contrast to the “La Riotte” above, this vineyard yields a wine of brooding tension, blacker of fruit and sterner, with a more rigorous acid profile and far more blatant power underpinning it. “Les Chaffots” is unfailingly a profound wine that beckons for some patience, but the purity of fruit is striking here, even in the context of such tight-grained structure.