2015 Harmand Geoffroy Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru “Lavaux Saint Jacques”Rosenthal
Nestled in the heart of the Combe de Lavaux, “Lavaux Saint Jacques” is one of the more famous and coveted sites in the appellation, and for good reason—it encompasses a panoply of seemingly at-odds characteristics with ease, and many consider it a grand cru in all but name. The Harmand family is fortunate to work three quarters of a hectare here, with vines between 45 and 95 years of age. This 2015 combines the intensity of the “Champeaux” above with a more profoundly gamy core, and it displays a level of refinement that is almost startling considering the massive scale of the wine. The palate displays grand-cru-like density and length, and this will prove ravishing in time. 50% new oak.
BH 92: A discreet application of wood sets off the cool essence of black raspberry, humus, forest floor and game nuances. There is first-rate punch to the even more intensely mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that possess excellent underlying material along with a very firm and presently prominent tannic spine that makes its presence felt on the hugely long finish. This is terrific provided you have the patience to allow it the considerable time it will require to soften as well as to add some supplemental depth.