2014 Jean Marc Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge 1er Cru "Clos Saint Jean"Some Good Wine
Considered by many to be the greatest terroir for red wine in the entire appellation, “Clos Saint Jean” sits high up on the slope, overlooking the village itself. Pillot owns just under half a hectare of staggeringly old Pinot Noir here—104 years old as of the 2014 vintage—and produces what is unquestionably his grandest red from this vaunted site. Neither as juicy as “Macherelles” nor as powerful as “Morgeot,” the 2014 is striking in its finesse and elegance—the perfect counter-argument to the sometimes-encountered view of Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge as a straightforward or rustic wine. The regally composed 2014 presents a seamless interweaving of buffed red fruits, clean limestone, and subtly savory tannins, gliding across the palate with leanly muscled poise and energy. A beauty like this is enough to make one rue the fact that so much Pinot Noir has been replanted to Chardonnay over the years.