2011 Paolo Bea Rosso de Veo
$ 59.99

Compared to the bestial “Pipparello” above, the pure-Sagrantino 2011 “Rosso de Veo” is more restrained, with a greater sense of freshness and a more pronounced purity of fruit—not that it’s at all debonair, it has simply attended an etiquette class or two. On the nose, the fruit veers more toward deep red than black, with ripe cherries offering lusciousness and lift. There are still plenty of earthbound elements here—fresh pipe tobacco, black truffles, liberal amounts of exotic spice—but the overall impression is friendlier and less savage. On the palate, the structure actually comes across as more authoritarian at the moment, perhaps because there are fewer wild elements swirling around to distract from it, but also undoubtedly due to the grape variety’s inherent tannic ferocity. Still, it carries its size with (dare we say) grace, and this 2011 is an especially deep and detailed version of “Rosso de Veo.”