2014 Michel Gahier Arbois Melon “La Fauquette”
$ 37.99

Always the grandest of Michel’s white wines, “Fauquette” (from soils of marne bleu) spends nearly four years in barrel without topping up. Michel calls it “Melon” in honor of the local red-streaked mutation of Chardonnay called Melon Queue Rouge (which in fact comprise all his white-wine holdings). Despite the marked influence of the voile, “Fauquette” is the most elegant of Gahier’s whites: viscerally salty and rich, but with the finesse of great Corton-Charlemagne. It is truly amazing that Michel can express such purity and laser-focus in a wine of such wildness, and the well-aged examples of this cuvee he has poured us over the years have been outrageous.